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Am I wearing my suit right? Everything you need to know about this. 

Benno Büchler, 28.03.2023

Fast jeder Mann trägt einmal im Lemen einen Anzug, jedoch wissen die wenigsten, wie man ihn richtig trägt

The suit is the armor of the modern gentleman. And the Kingsman agents are the knights of the modern age.  

Man sieht ihn täglich. Sei es im Büro, im Zug oder auf offener Strasse. 

The Suit 

Almost every man owns one, and most own several. All the more shocking to find out how little men know about the statement from men's fashion. 

But not all suits are the same. 

The term suit has several meanings. The most common is a garment ensemble for men consisting of trousers and a jacket, optionally with a vest. In the most comprehensive meaning, the "suit" includes everything that you wear at the same time, the last remnants of this meaning can be found in children's language, when from "dressing" is the speech.



There are different styles and cuts that you, as a gentleman, definitely need to know about, and furthermore, what makes your suit and how to wear and care for it correctly.

Styles

With different styles, we talk about the fit. 

As with the shirt and all other garments, fit is absolutely essential. The best and most expensive suit will look like a sack of potatoes unless the fit is right.

The Italian

The Italian style. 

Tight and accentuated, an Italian cut suit encloses its wearer and ensures that the slim body shape of the wearer is highlighted. 

From the shoulders, through the chest to the waist kept narrow, this style has nothing to hide. The shoulders are not padded, so as not to make the suit unnecessarily voluminous.  

Transported is a lightness and freshness known for the Italian Dolce Vita.

The British

British style is the most common one that you can see on the street and in the offices. Which is not surprising, because it is a suitable suit for almost all body shapes.  

Slightly tapered around the hips, wider around the chest and padded at the shoulders, this style ensures a good comfort for the majority of men. Further, it has one or two slits in the back and slanted pockets with a flap over them. The pants are tight (but not skinny) and should sit high.  

The British style is the go-to for the office, for example, or occasions where a "normal" suit is the dress code.  

The American

When you think of the USA, you think of superlatives. This cliché doesn't stop at the suits either. 

The American style is more relaxed and "boxy." It is also known as the Sack Suit. The jacket is straight, with roomy sleeves and a single vent at the back. The trousers are also straight and cut wide.

American style is suitable exclusively for big, strong men. Since all with a different body shape would look like wearing a high quality garbage bag in it. 

Der klassische Anzug kommt in drei Stilen. Der Italienische, der Britische und den Amerikaner
Quelle: The modern Gentleman's Handbook, von Charles Tyrwhitt


Cuts

In addition to the fit, a distinction is also made in the cuts. Here we talk about the look of the front of the suit. 

Single-button

Clean and elegant, the Single-button convinces with its single button.  

Most suitable for smaller men, as it gives the impression of looking taller. Or for very slim men, as the eye is drawn to the center of the suit. 

Two-button

If in doubt, use the two-button.  

The collar pulls down to the top of the two buttons, forming a flattering V.  

The fact that the collar pulls down so low also visually stretches the jacket, making you look a bit taller, plus it draws the focus to the center of the torso, making it look a bit slimmer.  

This suit is appropriate for any occasion. Whether in the bar, in the office or dancing.

Three-button

A slightly older and more formal cut that is not often seen today. Yet this style can be the perfect choice for some men. 

By making you look a little more buttoned up (literally) with its three buttons, it doesn't make your body look a little bigger than it is. Which makes it the optimal suit for tall men. 

By making the V smaller than the other two, it additionally balances the size of the wearer somewhat.  

Two-and-a-half-button

The two and a half button suit is, strictly speaking, also a three button suit with two subtle differences: 

The collar extends over the top button, forcing it to hide. Thus, it can be closed exclusively by the middle button and looks a bit like a two-button. 

The second difference is that you can wear it even if you are not huge and the hidden button is a fashion feature that has real style.

Double-Breasted 

A suit that has had an on-off relationship with the fashion industry since 1990. It practically never makes it into the mainstream, but is never completely gone either.  

The main difference from the other styles is that the Double-Breasted has two rows of buttons instead of one. Therefore, the jackets are also uniquely named, so you can easily distinguish them. 

For example, a double-breasted jacket with a total of six buttons, two of which can be closed, and three decorative buttons are located on the left side, is called a: "button two, show three" or simply "6×2". So six buttons in total and two of them closable. 



The Double-Breasted comes in several variations. These are the most common three.
Source: theartefact.com

These are the most common among the double-breasted jackets.  

They call themselves:  

  • Button two, show three (6×2) 
  • Button one, show two (4×1) 
  • Button three, show three (6×3) 

This suit is most suitable for slim men, as it looks wider with the two rows of buttons.  

However, if you experiment with the different styles, you can find a double-breasted suit for most body shapes.  



Etiquette

If you pay attention, you'll see how wearing a suit with gentlemen is a constant unbuttoning and buttoning. But don't worry, I'll show you the proper suit etiquette here so you know when to unbutton and when to button. Because worse than constantly unbuttoning and buttoning your suit is keeping your jacket closed at the wrong moment.  

With the Single-button it's relatively simple: as soon as you sit down, you open the jacket, when you stand up, you close the jacket again.

The Two-button has the same rules as the Single-button, with some additions. Namely, you never, NEVER close the bottom button. Because it is an insult to King Edward VII, who died in 1901, and your suit is deliberately cut so that this button remains open.

Also, you should always unbutton the suit when you want to put your hands in your pants pocket. If you wear a vest under the jacket, the suit will always remain open. 

With the Tripple-button, you can usually decide for yourself whether you want to close only the middle button or also the top button. Otherwise, the same standards apply as with the two-button.

The Double-Breasted makes things a little easier for us, because it generally stays closed. It doesn't matter whether you're standing, sitting or have your hands in your pants pocket.

As a rule, you keep the suit jacket on. 

Never be the first to take them off in a meeting. (Unless you are the highest boss in the room).  

Care

In order to give your suit the longest life possible, it is fundamental that you take good care of it.  

Here are some things you need to be aware of: 

  • Suit pants look worn out faster than the jacket, so consider buying two pairs of pants to go with one jacket. 
  • When you hang your suit, make sure it gets the support it needs
  • Hang the jacket on a wide hanger that supports the shoulders nicely 
  • Fold the pants lengthwise in the middle, with the back pockets facing outward, so that the crease is folded and hang them like this over the bar of the hanger, avoiding hangers with clips. 
  • The three-day week: not only you need rest after a long day at work, you should also allow your suit to relax. Make sure that after wearing it once, it can safely breathe for 24 hours before you use it again. 
  • As with shirts, be sure to give your suit enough closet space so it's definitely not jammed in.
  • Brushing: After taking off your suit, brush it briefly with a natural fiber brush. Brush it hanging and make sure it is unbuttoned. 
  • To get the daily wrinkles out of your suit, hang it in the bathroom when you shower. The steam will easily iron out the roughest wrinkles. 
  • Never use an iron! 
  • Your suit should not be dry cleaned more than twice a year. Dry cleaning damages the fabric and the structure of the suit. 
  • Small stains can be perfectly treated with wet wipes 
  • Seasonal suits should be supplied dry and clean 


Conclusion

"Three points ahead of everyone else is like someone posing in a white suit while the rest stand there dressed in trash bags." 

It is part of the cornerstone of every gentleman to be able to wear and care for his suit properly.  

Even if you see hundreds of men in suits every day, you'll be surprised how easy it is to stand out. 

Care for your suit properly 

Wear it with pride. 

And you will be ten steps ahead of everyone. 

Source cover image: Pexels | edited post



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